BASIC FIRE-FIGHTING PROCEDURES

Since no two fires are exactly alike, the procedures for fighting fires must vary to fit the circumstances. In fact, flexibility y is an important aspect of fire fighting. Often it is necessary to make split-second changes in techniques or methods of extinguishing a fire, as the fire can change its pattern.

Basically, there are certain things that must be determined before you can attack any fire. These include finding answers to the following questions: . Where is the fire?

. What is burning? What class of fire is it? . What is the extent of the fire? Does it involve more than one type of combustible material? . What other combustible materials are located nearby? What special problems will exist if they catch fire?

Acting on information as to the location and nature of the fire, the scene leader makes a quick survey to determine what methods and equipment should be used to extinguish the fire. The scene leader must also make decisions concerning the need for additional men and equipment to combat the fire.

Once the location, nature, and extent of the fire have been determined, a fire area is established in which all safety precautions must be observed and from which all combustible materials must be removed. Within the boundaries of the fire area, doors, hatches, manholes, ventilation ducts, and other openings are closed where practicable and necessary. The scene leader also directs the de-energizing of electrical circuits.

The selection of agents and equipment to extinguish a fire is based upon a number of factors. These include the availability of equipment and the effects of the various agents. The various fire-fighting agents perform as follows: Water wets, penetrates, and cools; water fog wets, cools, and shields; aqueous film forming foam (AFFF) smothers permanently; CO2 smothers temporarily; while two agents, dry chemical PKP and HaIon 1301, interfere with combustion to give the effect of temporary smothering.

The agents and equipment used to extinguish various kinds of fires are listed, in the preferred order of use, in the following paragraphs: . CLASS A fires in woodwork, bedding, clothing, and similar kinds of combustibles: (1) fixed water sprinkling, (2) high-velocity fog, (3) solid water stream, (4) AFFF, (5) PKP, (6) CO2 extinguishers, and (7) Halon 1301. . CLASS A fires in explosives or propellants: (1) magazine sprinkling, (2) AFFF, and (3) solid water stream or high-velocity fog. l CLASS B fires in paints, spirits, and flammable liquid stores: (1) fixed CO2 installation, (2) AFFF, (3) installed sprinkling system, (4) PKP, (5) high-velocity fog, (6) portable CO2 extinguishers, and (7) Halon 1301. . CLASS B fires in gasoline: (1) installed (fixed flooding) CO2 systems, (2) TAU, (3) AFFF, (4) PKP, (5) water sprinkling system, and (6) Halon 1301. l CLASS B fires in fuel oil, JP-5, dieseI oil, and kerosene: (1) installed CO2 systems (fixed flooding), (2) AFFF, (3) PKP, (4) water sprinkling system, (5) high-velocity fog, and (6) Halon 1301. . CLASS C fires in electrical and electronic equipment (after de-energizing affected circuits): (1) portable CO2 extinguishers or CO2 hose-and-reel systems, (2) Halon 1301, (3) PKP, and (4) high-velocity fog (no closer then 4 feet). . CLASS D fires incombustible metals: (l) jettison into the sea, if possible, and (2) highvelocity fog (in quantity).

Special hazards may develop when Mark 24 and Mark 45 flares are carried aboard ship. These flares consist of powdered magnesium and other chemicals. Although flare fires are extremely hard to put out, they can be extinguished by the techniques described here.

After a Mark 24 flare has been accidentally activated, you have only 10 to 30 seconds to take action before the flare ignites. If the accidental activation is discovered immediately, it is usually possible to knock the ignition assembly off or to drag the flare by its parachute to get it away from other flares and aircraft. If the flare is to be thrown overboard, try to cut the shroud lines so the flare will not be fouled or blown back onto the deck.

In the case of the Mark 45 flare, a pull on the lanyard results in ejection of the candle and IMMEDIATELY starts ignition. To dispose of this flare, pick it up bodily, with ends pointing away from you, and remove it to a safe spot. Do not attempt to jettison it with the parachute attached.

If it is impossible to get rid of an activated flare, fight the fire with a 1 1/2-inch hose and the all-purpose nozzle with a 4-foot or 10-foot applicator attached. Use antiflash gloves and number 6 shade welding goggles. This protection is very important, since flares burn at 2 million candlepower.

Approach the fire from the windward side, if possible. Insert the applicator fog head into the burning end of the flare and, with a slight oscillating motion, wash the burning face from the nonburning candle grain. DO NOT use a solid stream of water.

If one flare or several have ignited in a pile of flares, you will have about 1 minute before the other flares ignite. Separate the flares so that the burning ones can be extinguished individually. Fire axes, rakes, forcible-entry tools, or even the applicator itself can be used to separate the flares.

Rapid action is vitally important in fighting a flare fire, particularly below decks or in confined spaces. Water applied to a magnesium fire liberates hydrogen gas, which is violently explosive in certain concentrations. The faster the flare fire can be extinguished, the less danger there is of a hydrogen gas explosion.