SPECIAL HAND TOOLS

When working in the fabric shop, you will find that you have a need for tools that are not commonly stocked in the average tool room. Therefore, we must discuss some of the specific tools used in the fabric shop. The tools used for fabric and rubber maintenance are not highly complicated, but they are designed for a specific purpose. In your hands these tools can help produce a finished product of which you can be proud.

SHEARS

A scissor-type tool that you often use for fabric work is known as shears, as shown in figure 10-5. A pair of shears consists of two cutting edges so hinged that, when closed, the cutting edges cross each other in close contact. This shearing action is used for cutting fabrics. The large loop in the handle is for two or three fingers and the small loop is for the thumb. The blades are not straight, but are slightly curved toward each other so that, inclosing, the two cutting edges are held firmly together by the spring action of the blades.

Always keep the shears sharp. If the shears are not sharp enough to effectively cut the material, they must be sharpened. A more

Figure 10-5.-Shears.

effective job can be done by disassembling the shears and sharpening one shear at a time. The bottom shear has a more blunt angle than the upper, so exercise care in the cutback or angle of sharpening. Also in sharpening, start at the point or toe of the shear and move toward the heel of the shear. This drives the heat, generated in grinding, to the heel of the shear where there is more metal to radiate the heat. To grind toward the toe or point drives the heat to the lesser metal, and it can result in burning the metal and drawing the temper out. After grinding the shear, reassemble it loosely at first so that, on the first closing, the wire edge resulting from the grinding is removed.

Another type of shears you will use is known as pinking shears. This tool is used for cutting a series of Vs along fabric edges to prevent fraying. If pinking shears become dull, they should be returned to the manufacturer for sharpening.

Remember, always keep the shears sharp. Don't drop your shears, as this springs the blades and reduces their cutting ability. DON'T use them to puncture metal objects or to pry things open. DON'T use shears as a knife to remove stitching; you may injure yourself or damage the stitches you are cutting. (For this job, use an upholsterer's knife or a stitch cutting tool.) When shears are beyond shop maintenance capabilities, return them to supply for a replacement.

FOOT-OPERATED GROMMET PRESS

With the foot-operated grommet press, as shown in figure 10-6, you can install grommets by mass production. The press itself stores the two parts of the grommet, leaving your hands free to position material while your foot applies the needed pressure. The important parts of this press are the chuck and die. For each type and size of grommet, there is a corresponding chuck and die. The chuck is the upper tool; the die is the lower tool. Use the adjustment screw, located either at the top or bottom of the foot-operated press, to prevent pressure damage to the chuck and die. When set correctly, this adjustment screw will set the clearance of the chuck and die to 1/32 inch, about the thickness of bond typing paper, which is adequate for most grommets. Some footoperated presses have been in service for as many as 25 years and still require only the replacement of the chuck and die. The foot press may also be used in the shop to install glove fasteners. However, if a portable glove fastener installation tool is needed, you can use the hand press.

Figure 10-6.-Foot-operated press.