SAILMAKER'S PALM

The sailmaker's palm has a small metal disk insert set in rawhide and stitched into a leather glove-type device. It is designed to be worn in the palm of the hand, and it is used to aid in pushing a sail needle through the material being sewn or tacked (fig. 10-9).

AWL

The awl is another instrument used as an aid in sewing heavy material where pushing the sail or hand sewing needle through the material becomes difficult. It is a sharp-pointed instrument, with a handle attached, and is used for punching holes in a heavy fabric or material prior to inserting the needle. Never use a hot needle or iron as a substitute for the awl.

Figure 10-9.-Sailmaker's palm.

STAR PUNCH

The star punch or leather punch is a very useful tool for punching holes through material to be fastened with snap fasteners or speedy rivets.

HARDWARE

Looking back through the first two sections of this chapter, you see that we have discussed textile materials and tools. This section is also concerned with a different type of material often used in the fabric shop. We call it hardware. Grommets, glove fasteners, and interlocking fasteners are pieces of hardware you use during your daily work. You must install pieces of hardware to covers, bags, and clothing to strengthen or to secure these items. Not only do you have to be able to identify this hardware, you also have to know how to install it properly.

GROMMETS

You use grommets whenever it is necessary to reinforce holes for lacings in covers, bags, panels, and upholstery. There are two parts to a grommet: the grommet itself or collar and the washer. The two types of grommets used are plain and spur grommets, as shown in figure 10-10.

The plain grommet uses a plain washer, whereas the spur grommet uses a toothed washer that bites into the material to form a grip. The spur grommet, because of its strength, is used where the pull will be particularly strong; or it may be used in large covers. Leather is sometimes used at corners to reinforce the area where grommets are to be installed. Grommets are made of aluminum, brass, or chrome-plated brass. They are available in several sizes (00, 1, 2, 3, 4, etc.);

Figure 10-10.-Grommets-p1ain and spur.

the smaller the number, the smaller the size of the grommet.

To install grommets, you must proceed through a series of operations. Locate and mark where a grommet installation is needed. Be sure you set the grommet far enough from the edge of material to prevent it from tearing. Select the correct punch by matching its size to the size of the grommet collar, as shown in figure 10-11.

After you have used the leather cutting punch to cut a hole in the fabric, you must mate the parts of the grommet. Place the grommet on the finished side of the material and the washer underneath. Determine the correct size chuck and die. Assemble the grommet, washer, punch, and die, as illustrated in figure 10-12. Now you are ready to flatten the collar. This operation can be accomplished in a variety of ^ways, depending upon the availability of tools .